A place where time slows down

There are places in Kashmir that attract tourists with excitement. And then there are places that quietly call to the heart. Yemberzalwari, tucked away in the Zainageer belt of Sopore in Baramulla district, belongs to the second kind. Around 18 kilometres from Sopore and about 38 kilometres from Baramulla district, this small mountain village remains hidden behind thick forests and high ridges, almost as if it has chosen silence over fame. It does not try to impress anyone. It simply exists, wrapped in nature, history and faith. My first visit to Yemberzalwari is one I will remember for a long time. The road climbed gently through evergreen forests, each bend opening another marvelous view.The tall Deodar and Pine trees stood motionless, their branches touching the sky. Murmuring mountain streams slipped gently over stones.The cool breeze carried the fragrance of pine, damp earth and wild herbs. For a while I stopped speaking. Some places ask for words, others ask for silence, and Yemberzalwari belongs to the latter. The village breathes with nature. Walnut, apple and pear trees grow around homes, while colourful wildflowers spread across the meadows. Birds sing from the branches and bushes and whisper of flowing water follows visitors through the forest paths. Time seems to move slowly in this mountain homelet, alllowing one to notice small things that often go unseen in everyday life. The most fascinating treasure of Yemberzalwari is a limestone cave. A short walk of nearly 200 metres through the forest leads to its entrance. Hidden beneath the mountain, the cave is both mysterious and beautiful. Its natural rock formations, shaped drop by drop over countless years, leave visitors wondering how patiently nature creates its finest works. An explorer who surveyed the cave some years ago could cover only about 150 metres of one passage during an hour-long exploration. Much of the cave still remains untouched, keeping its secrets safely beneath the mountain. That mystery itself becomes part of the experience.Yet Yemberzalwari is not remembered only for its landscapes. Its mountains also carry stories of devotion. Local people lovingly point towards a dark rocky height known as “Muqdam Saeben Waer”. They believe that Hazrat Sultan-ul-Aarifeen Sheikh Hamzah Makhdoom (RA) came here and gathered a wild vegetable called Wopal Hakh. This is a simple story, but this quietly speaks of a saint whose greatness rested in humility and whose life remained close to nature. The elders of the village also narrate that two of his devoted disciples, Hazrat Sheikh Ahmad Chogali (RA) and Hazrat Khawaja Hassan Qari (RA), spent long periods in meditation among these mountains. They lived with very little, surviving on wild grasses and herbs while dedicating themselves to prayer and remembrance of Allah. Whether one comes here as a traveller or a believer, the silence of these hills seems to preserve the memory of those forgotten days. Even today, standing there, one feels that the mountains have learned how to pray. What touched me equally was the warmth of the people. Their hospitality comes naturally. Their smiles are unforced, their words gentle and their lives simple. They still preserve values that many places are slowly losing—kindness, respect and contentment. A visitor is welcomed not as a stranger but as someone expected. When I returned home, I realised I had carried back more than photographs. I had brought with me the coolness of mountain air, the murmur of forest streams and the quiet wisdom of a place where nature and spirituality continue to walk together. This picturesque village reminds us that the soul of Kashmir is not found in her famous destinations. It still lives in her forgotten villages, where every stone,every winding path and every tree tells a story. Khursheed Dar writes on Kashmiri sufism, culture and society.

Source: Read Full Article